Undershirt

This beige cotton talismanic undershirt was made in India in the 15th century. The shirt, which was never finished or worn, is an important example of painstaking ornament which is subordinate to religious function.

The undershirt is of simple cut and construction formed by folding the cross-shaped piece of fabric in half at the shoulders and sewing the underarm and side seams together. The texts which cover the garment in panels of minute script like the displayed pages of a book, record prayers and chapters of the Quran. The two medallions on the front painted in tall letters of Arabic calligraphy contain the Muslim profession of faith, shahada 'There is no God but God and Muhammad is his Prophet'.

Shirts such as this were given to eminent pilgrims at Mecca as a pious souvenir. They may also have been worn under armour as a talismanic protection against wounds in battle - a symbolic flak jacket or bullet-proof vest. Enough examples have survived to suggest a reasonable level of production. As textile production in India has always responded quickly to customer demand, it is possible that a consignment was sent to Mecca.

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