published in Paris
This hand-coloured fashion plate is from La Mode Illustreé, a fashion magazine published in Paris. Dating from 1883, the plate illustrates two evening dresses. It is signed, 'Bonnard' and 'Anaïs Toudouze'.
The bustles on these dresses are quite exaggerated and tend to arch up and out from the back. The skirts are draped and trimmed at the back into elaborate bouffants. The hems are kilted or 'accordion-pleated'.
The bustle consisted of a kind of projecting shelf of wadding or wire around which the dress could be built. Shaped rather like a lobster pot, it could be pushed aside when the wearer sat down.
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